Wednesday, June 8, 2005

India

6/8, 5:40PM: Dateline-Bangalore, India. We started our Asian tour last week and there is so much I’ve already experienced. Though I fear the written word may not accurately portray the overwhelming assault on the senses that India brings, I am compelled to share what has already been an experience I shall never forget.

First, the 14 hour flight from L.A. to Hong Kong...I can’t believe I’m going to say this but, it wasn’t that hard. As my number one favorite guy, Jeff Sturges (our MD) likes to say, my road chops are up! An 8 hour L.A. to London run?...like a stroll to the corner market to me now. The key is time management and always go for the aisle seat. If you’re near the window, every time you have to get up you have to bother the other one or two people to get up and let you out. A few trips to the toilet and the annoyance factor goes way up. Middle seat?...no room! You’ve got people on either side and you can’t stretch out into the aisle or use the wall next to you to lean against. It’s a no-win situation. Now, the aisle allows freedom of movement both for leaving your seat as often as you need and for letting your limbs and shoulder expand beyond the limitations of the seat. It’s perfect and it gives you a sense that you’re not being squished.

After a day layover in Hong Kong, we flew to Delhi, India. A brief 4 hour flight that was punctuated by the showing of a fun movie with John Travolta called “Be Cool”. I had read the book by Elmore Leonard so it was neat seeing how the roles were cast.

India...where to begin? Well, I guess the first thing that struck me was the incredible heat. Following that very quickly was the smell. Intense heat and the smell of urine; not exactly travel brochure material. The bus ride from the airport to the hotel was an eye-opener. Now, mind you, it’s 2am and it’s still over 90 degrees outside! The bus ride itself, with the seemingly chaotic way in which traffic flows (or doesn’t flow), was an adventure. Buses, cars, motorcycles, pedestrians, bicycles, and these very small 3-wheeled taxis, all co-mingle to form a river of movement that pushes and pulls in different -- and often opposite -- directions. Horns are used liberally and I’m not sure with what intention or effect. Amidst all this chaos is the occasionally alarming sight of a cow or goat standing untouched and seemingly unaffected.

The heat is so thick and stifling that people can be seen literally lying on the sidewalk sleeping. It’s also not unusual to see someone relieving themselves in public. There are trenches that run along the sidewalk -- basically an open sewer -- where people urinate and, I guess, drop a deuce when the moment arrives. I’ve seen people also just squat in an open lot. I inquired, as I’ve been known to do, about how they clean up. There is no toilet paper, so they use their hand. In particular, their left hand, as is Indian custom. Small pitchers of water are kept nearby to rinse your hand off. Thus, it is considered a great insult here to shake someone’s hand with your left hand or to serve them food with your left hand. I must say, with no apprehension, that I’m inclined to agree.

The extent of the poverty here, with vast slums that consist of large networks of cramped open-air dwellings with no electricity and which resemble a giant stone & aluminum house of cards, and the aggressive begging from children & adults alike, is alarming. And yet, I sense in these people a great dignity, and a strong pride in the Indian culture. There is great beauty in their music, clothing, art, and architecture. One gets the feeling that India is like the talented athlete that never quite realized his potential.

As for my accommodations; nothing but first-rate, with the most exceedingly helpful and friendly workers & staff you could imagine. There isn’t a need that goes unsatisfied or a wish that goes unfulfilled. I’ve been immersing myself in a routine of gym followed by pool. The weather is great for getting some sun, jumping in the pool (which has always been the perfect temperature) to cool off, and then getting out and feeling nice and warm as you let the sun dry you off. The hotels we’ve been at here all have quite a history and I must say I feel like I’m leading some sort of exotic lifestyle.

The tour has been getting quite a lot of press here both on TV and in print. Saw myself on the evening news when they aired a concert clip, which was kind of cool. I also saw a picture of Engelbert from last night’s concert in today’s paper. I was barely discernible in the background but it was still kind of fun to see. We played in Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay) last night and gave one of our strongest shows in a while. I thought Engelbert was particularly on and he gave a very exciting performance. It’s still a thrill for me to play behind him.

All in all, this has been an experience of great contrasts both physically and emotionally. With several countries still ahead, I can only assume this is just the beginning.

Until next time...

Your friendly neighborhood bassist,
--Adam

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